Need help deciding
which Tahoe ski resort to visit? Ever wonder how to cut through the
hype of advertising and get a perspective on the resorts from a local
skier? Read on.
There are many
factors in planning your Tahoe Ski-and-Ride trip, but one of the
biggest is which resort to visit. Of course, one of the great things
about Tahoe is that you can visit many resorts in just one trip
because we have so many resorts in a relatively small area. But many people still
want to know which area to focus on in picking lodgings and planning
restaurants, and there are many lodging packages that include lift
tickets. Below is a list of considerations to help you choose where
to have fun.
Note that this
list concentrates on the major winter (downhill) resorts. We also
have smaller areas like Boreal and Donner Ski Ranch (Both Already
OPEN!) to ski and ride, and you don't want to forget Royal Gorge, our
huge cross-country area that connects to Sugar Bowl. Many of the
other areas also have cross-country trails.
Here are some of
the questions people often ask about Tahoe resorts. While some of the
answers are simple facts (like ski area elevation), others are my
personal opinions. (Please register your additions and dissent as
“comments” at the end of this post!)
What are the Biggest Resorts?
Heavenly, followed
by Squaw Valley. Both Heavenly and Squaw are huge. Many people could
ski/ride either area for a week without repeating any run or
combinations of runs. (An interesting footnote: The owners of Squaw
Valley recently bought Alpine Meadows. Because they back up against
each other, the plan is to eventually connect them. When that
happens, the combined area will reportedly be the biggest resort in
North America.)
What are the Not-So-Big Areas?
Which Resorts get the Most Snow?
The eight areas
aligned along the Sierra Crest (to the west of the lake) get the most
snow. They are, from north to south, Sugar Bowl, Boreal, Donner SkiRanch, Squaw Valley, Alpine Meadows, Homewood, Sierra-at-Tahoe, and
Kirkwood. Of all these, Kirkwood regularly gets the most of all.
It should be noted
that while nearly all our resorts have decent snowmaking, some areas,
especially Heavenly, have huge snowmaking systems. In those rare
years when we don't get much natural snowfall early in the season
(i.e., before January), the areas with snowmaking often have the best
snow. Also remember that the most snow isn't always what everyone
prefers. See the next list.
Which resorts have the Most Sun?
Sometimes, while
the areas on the Sierra Crest are lost in the fog and white-out
conditions of a slow-moving storm system, our other four areas are
enjoying fantastic sun. These sunnier areas are Northstar, DiamondPeak, Mt. Rose, and Heavenly.
Highest Elevation at the Summit
Heavenly at just
over 10,000 feet is the highest, followed by Kirkwood, then Mt. Rose.
This usually only matters in the spring when the sun is turning the
snow to mush. When that happens, the higher you go, the better the
snow.
Best Slope Grooming
Most Independent of Automobiles
Nearly all Tahoe
skiers – even those that fly into Reno or Sacramento – drive to
the mountain. Yet some of our visitors love to drop off their car and
not get back into it for a week. While Tahoe resorts do not have a
huge amount of ski-in/ski-out lodging, there is some at many areas.
And several areas have lodging at the base where you can walk from
your hotel to the lift. The most auto-independent resorts are
Northstar followed by Squaw, both of which have substantial
pedestrian-focused base villages. Heavenly has a smaller pedestrian
village at the base of the gondola where it is enjoyable to stay
without having to use your car. Several of the other areas have
limited on-slope lodging where you can put on your skis at your door
and ski to the lift. Check out ski-in/ski-out vacation rental homes
especially at Northstar, Kirkwood, and Squaw.
Fewest Crowds
This one is easy.
Homewood, Diamond Peak, Mt. Rose, Boreal and Donner Ski Ranch.
Best Value
Most Lodging Choices
Heavenly, because
it is in Tahoe's largest community, the South Shore. Next would be
Northstar and Squaw for lodging close to the slopes, then Diamond
Peak for lodging in nearby Incline Village. Skiers at Northstar,
Squaw, Alpine, Sugar Bowl, Boreal. and Donner often stay in Truckee,
which has many lodging choices.
Most Nightlife
Heavenly because it
is at the South Shore where there are the most entertainment options.
Best Views
This is easy. The
resorts with the best views are those that are closest to the lake.
Diamond Peak, Homewood, and Heavenly. (Northstar is somewhat close to
the lake, but it faces north, away from the lake. Both Alpine and
Squaw have views of the lake, but they are not as grand as those
areas on the lake.)
 |
| View from Heavenly |
Most Family Friendly
What do families
want for their winter playland? One of the main things is a place
where they don't have to worry about their kids getting lost or
otherwise getting into trouble. The resorts that most answer this
need are all the areas other than the biggest two, Heavenly and
Squaw. (I know I will get argument on this because many families will
stay within a single area of the big resorts, treating it as a
smaller resort within the big place.) For most family-friendly of
all, I vote for Northstar, which is large, but the way it is laid out
around the pedestrian base village makes it very comfortable.
Northstar also has the most ski-in/ski-out lodging, which, although
expensive, is great for families.
Easiest to Get to Without
Four-Wheel-Drive
For most Tahoe
visitors, getting over Donner Summit (Interstate 80 from Sacramento)
on the north or Echo Summit (Hwy 50 from Sacramento) on the south is
a bigger hurdle than getting to each area once you are in the Tahoe
area. From Reno, you have an easier drive up 80 or 50, and both of
those access routes get less snow than those coming from the west.
Having said that,
some of our resorts have steeper base access than others. The ones
with the easiest, most level access are Heavenly Village at the base
of the gondola, and Squaw Valley. Homewood sits right on Highway 89
on the West Shore, which is fairly flat, but access is often only
from the north (Tahoe City) because Emerald Bay to the south is often
closed during storms. All of the other areas require driving on
substantial slopes to get to them.
Most Challenging Terrain
Squaw and Kirkwood
have the most legendary challenging terrain, steep chutes and
cliff-edged palisades, although both have lots of easier, cruiser
runs, too! On the flip side, while Heavenly is often thought of as a
cruiser area, it also has Mott and Killebrew Canyons along with The
Face, some of the most challenging terrain in the country.
Easiest Terrain
All of our areas
have good learning areas along with good ski instructors to assist
you.
Which resort has the Highest Glitz
Factor? i.e., Where are you likeliest to see movie stars and sports
stars putting on their moves?
Like Aspen and Vail
in Colorado, the Movie Star Quotient in Tahoe is highest at Squaw and
Heavenly.
Here's a Quick Description of Each Area
from a Local's Perspective
Heavenly is a huge,
sprawling resort, Heavenly is the biggest and highest, and it has the
most vertical rise (3500 feet) of any Tahoe resort. While it is often
thought of as a cruiser area, Heavenly has every kind of terrain.
Heavenly also has Tahoe's best tree skiing (ask a local for current,
best tree-skiing locations). Reaching from California into Nevada,
Heavenly has four bases, two in South Lake Tahoe (at the base of the
gondola in Heavenly Village, and up Ski Run Blvd), and two up off the
top of Kingsbury Grade on the Nevada side. (Note: your kids will love
the trails that go from one state into the other. Take their picture
next to the signs that say, “Entering California” with Lake Tahoe
in the background.)
Because of its
location on the South Shore, Heavenly is nearer to more lodging,
restaurants, and other entertainment than any other Tahoe resort.
Heavenly, along with Northstar and Kirkwood, was recently purchased
by Vail Corporation, which shows how highly those resorts are
regarded by big money from out of the area.
With Tahoe's only
Olympic history, legendary terrain, Hollywood glitz, and
spectacular valley views, Squaw Valley is the quintessential Tahoe
resort. Squaw is located on 89 south of Truckee and north of Tahoe
City. Just look for the Olympic Rings. You can spend an entire week
in the valley, never get in your car, and you won't feel like you've
missed a thing. And if anyone in your party gets tired of skiing or
riding, there is the pool and skating rink at the top of
the cable car. Unlike any other Tahoe resort, when you are sitting at
Squaw's pool at 8200 feet, surrounded by mountain peaks, you might
for a moment think you are in Switzerland. At the end of the day,
there are many good restaurants in the base village along with
boutique shops.
 |
| High Camp at the top of Squaw's Cable Car |
Tahoe's oldest
major resort (Granlibakken is the true oldest) still
has a bit of quaint historical feel to it. Sugar Bowl is fun and
family-friendly. Driving up Interstate 80 from the Central Valley,
Sugar Bowl is the first major resort you come to, meaning you'll
spend less time driving and more time skiing. Like all Tahoe resorts,
Sugar Bowl can get crowded on the weekends, but during the midweek
you'll find less crowds than at most resorts. Sugar Bowl is adjacent
to Royal Gorge, America's largest cross-country ski resort, with its
own awesome terrain and magnificent views.
Many locals say
that Alpine Meadows is their favorite Tahoe resort, and more than a
few think that it gets more snow than any other Tahoe area other than
Kirkwood. A few miles north of 89 from Tahoe City, Alpine is
surprisingly large with every kind of terrain, but it doesn't have
the sprawling feel of Squaw or Heavenly. Alpine has a wonderful
layout of runs. Because of the different ways that Alpine faces, one
can often find sheltered runs when the weather is blowing. Alpine was
recently bought by the owners of Squaw, which is just over the ridge
to the north, so look for big changes in the future. The goal is to
connect the two to make one of the largest resorts in the world.
Homewood is one of
Tahoe's best values, its best-kept secret, and it has Tahoe's best
lake views, too! South of Tahoe City on the West Shore, Homewood sits
closer to Lake Tahoe than any other resort. From many runs it looks
like you're about to ski down into the water. Although Homewood has
big plans for upgrades (which will eventually raise prices), right
now it still feels like a friendly resort from years past. Homewood
is Tahoe's biggest surprise because it doesn't look like much from
the road. But once you ride the lifts up, you will find that it is a
big place with runs for everyone. Unless you're expecting Squaw's
glitz, you will be pleasantly surprised.
Like Sugar Bowl off
Interstate 80, Sierra (as locals call it) is the first resort you
come to as you drive up Highway 50 from Sacramento. Being closer
means more skiing and less sitting in traffic. On weekdays, Sierra is
as uncrowded as any Tahoe resort. Because it sits on the Sierra
Crest, Sierra gets more snow than most. Sierra also has more vertical
rise than most Tahoe resorts. Many South Shore locals have season
passes at Sierra, finding it to be less crowded than Heavenly.
“The 'Wood,” as
locals call it, is known for having the most snow of any resort in
North America. It's a big claim with the weather statistics to prove
it. (Although Sugar Bowl will fight them for that claim!) Add in a wide range of challenging terrain, and Kirkwood is hard
to beat. Kirkwood is about an hour drive from Tahoe's South Shore
(south out 89, then west on 88). Kirkwood's location is its major
advantage as well as disadvantage. Except on weekends, Kirkwood is
uncrowded, and you won't find many people showing off their latest
ski fashions. Instead, you'll find the serious skiers, searching out
the deepest snow in the country. Beware that in bad weather Kirkwood
is sometimes hard to get to. Carson Pass to the east is at 8600 feet,
and it often closes during storms. On the other hand, being trapped
at Kirkwood for unending days of bottomless powder would be one of
the greatest problems a skier could ever face!
Like Homewood on
the West Shore, this is the place where locals go on the NorthEast
Shore to avoid the rush. It is a short drive up from the town of
Incline Village. Diamond Peak is a great mountain with one of the
best overall views in Tahoe. From every run you look down at the lake
and across at the peaks of the Sierra Crest. Lunch on the
mid-mountain sundeck is an experience you'll never forget. Diamond
Peak is less expensive than the big areas, and it probably has the
best overall weather of all Tahoe resorts. Because Diamond Peak gets
more afternoon sun than most Tahoe areas, most winter days are
glorious sun-soaked experiences with awesome lake views.
Mt. Rose is not
actually on the mountain named Mt. Rose, but across from it on the
Mt. Rose Highway (#431). Mt. Rose Highway climbs up from Incline
Village, over Mr. Rose Summit (the highest year-round pass in the
Sierra) and then down to Reno. The ski runs face east toward Washoe
Lake and north toward the “Biggest Little City.” Because it has a
higher base elevation than the other Tahoe resorts, all of Mt. Rose
has good snow well into spring. Like Homewood and Diamond Peak, Mt.
Rose provides its slightly-smaller size for less cost than most other
areas. Mt. Rose also has the distinction of being the closest major
ski area to any international airport in the country. You can fly
into Reno and be at the chairlift in a bit over a half hour after
leaving the airport.
There's a reason
that Vail Resorts bought Northstar (along with Heavenly and
Kirkwood), and why Northstar has Tahoe's glitziest hotel (The
Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe). Northstar is a fabulous, completely
self-contained resort with a huge assortment of runs and a great base
village with good restaurants, an ice rink, and everything else to
make a perfect winter vacation. In a national poll, Northstar was
voted the most family-friendly ski resort in the country. Northstar
also has Tahoe's largest number of ski-in/ski-out lodgings. You need
never get back into your car during your time at Northstar.
You won't find many
Tahoe views because Northstar sits on Mt. Pluto, north of Tahoe, and
it faces north toward Truckee. But the ski area itself is
surprisingly large, and it has every kind of terrain.
 |
| Donner Ski Ranch |
These two separate
areas have similar characteristics (although the managements probably
don't think so!) Both are off Interstate 80 near Donner Summit, both
are smallish compared to the big Tahoe resorts, and both are much
less expensive. Both are traditionally the first resorts to open in
late fall. In fact BOTH ARE ALREADY OPEN THIS SEASON! Because of
their small size, they are particularly good choices for parents who
want to know that their kids can't stray too far.
How to Get to Tahoe?
The
Reno Tahoe International Airport (airport code RNO) is only an
hour or so from Incline Village, which is near Diamond Peak. From the
airport, you drive south on 395, then west on the Mt. Rose Highway
(#431). This route takes you past Mt. Rose Ski area, and over the Mt.
Rose Summit at 9000 feet, so you only want to go this way when the
weather is nice and the roads are clear.
The Reno Tahoe
airport is also less than an hour from Truckee. From the airport, you
go north on 395, then west on Interstate 80 to Truckee. The freeway
doesn't go over any passes until you through Truckee and climb on up to Donner Summit (where
Sugar Bowl, Boreal and Donner Ski Ranch are located.) From Truckee
you can easily access all of the resorts on the north side of Tahoe.
From the Reno Tahoe
Airport, you can also get to Tahoe's South Shore in only 90 minutes.
From the airport, go south on 395 to Carson City. Just south of
Carson City, turn west on Hwy 50. That takes you up and over Spooner
Summit, which sits a bit over 7000 feet. While Spooner can get snowy
during storms, it is usually clear. Once you get on the Tahoe side of
the summit, Hwy 50 turns south and goes directly to South Lake Tahoe.
(The portion of the town on the Nevada side of the California/Nevada
state line is called Stateline). To avoid confusion, many locals just
call the entire area the South Shore.
You can also fly in
to Sacramento International (airport code SMF). To get to Tahoe's
North Shore, drive south from the airport on Interstate 5, then turn
east on Interstate 80. The drive to Truckee takes about 2 and a half
hours.
To get from the
airport to Tahoe's South Shore, you also drive south on Interstate 5,
then turn east on Hwy 50. Note that this turnoff, while hugely
popular, is poorly marked. When you get close to downtown Sacramento,
stay to the right as you go over the bridge over the American River.
Look closely for the sign that says Hwy 50/South Lake Tahoe. Slow
down because the exit is a slow-speed affair. The total drive from
the airport to South Lake Tahoe is about 2 and a half hours.
Both 80 to North
Tahoe and 50 to South Tahoe require you to drive over passes, Donner
Summit on the north and Echo Summit on the south. These passes are
often clogged with snow during storms. When the snow flies, both
passes turn on signs requiring chains. And somewhat rarely, both
passes will sometimes close for an hour or more.
Chain Rules and Car Rental
Recommendations
Here's the rule
about chains. If you have 2-wheel-drive, you have to be prepared to
put on chains or they will turn you away. However, if you have
4-wheel-drive (same as all-wheel-drive for this purpose), they will
let you through as long as your tires don't look bald. The technical
rule is that your 4-wheel-drive must be equipped with snow tires.
However, most 4-wheel-drive standard tires are “mud and snow”
rated, so they are okay. To verify, look on the tire sidewall for the
letters “M + S.” In general, all 4-wheel-drive vehicles are waved
on through the chain control.
When you rent a
car, you will be tempted to save a couple of hundred bucks by
choosing 2-wheel-drive and possibly picking up a set of chains, which
are against rental car rules. I recommend that you don't do it.
You've already invested a lot in plane flight, hotel reservations,
possibly a ticket package, and even more important, your time. I can
tell you from experience, when the “Chain Control” lights turn
on, there is nothing worse than having to lie down in a freezing,
slushy puddle in the dark and wrestle with chains while you're trying
to aim a flashlight with your teeth, or even worse, being turned
away. If you have 4-wheel-drive, you will thank yourself a dozen
times for being smart enough to pay the extra cost. Here's an
indication of how valuable 4-wheel-drive is: Nearly every Tahoe resident who
can afford it has 4-wheel-drive.
 |
| Chevy Tahoe 4-Wheel-Drive |
A Few More Considerations for a Winter
Tahoe Vacation:
Because there are
so many resorts in Tahoe, you can watch the weather and pick the best
place for skiing and riding each day. Many visitors go to several
different areas on their vacation, choosing to chase the sun or the
powder or the fewest crowds. You don't get that opportunity anywhere
else in the country.
Another thing to
check out are multi-area passes. For example, you can often get
multi-day ticket deals that extend to more than one area. At last
check, a lift pass for Squaw is also good at Alpine.
Also notice that
season passes are still cheap. If you are planning a winter vacation
that is a week or longer, you can save money by buying a season pass
now. And some of those passes are good at multiple areas. One example
is the season pass good at Heavenly, Northstar and Kirkwood. Not only
do you save money compared to daily ticket prices, but you save a
great deal of hassle when you don't have to hike from parking to the
ticket booth and stand in line. With a pass around your neck, you
just head for the lift.
Last Thoughts
My wife and I have
skied many places across the country. And we've spoken to hundreds of people
who've skied all over the country and some all over the world. We all agree that there are
multiple things that Tahoe resorts have to offer that the rest of the
country doesn't:
*A Greater
Concentration of ski-and-ride resorts than anywhere outside of the
Alps
*More Sunny Days
(The Rockies can claim as many sunny days, but they often come during
times of Arctic-cold high-pressure systems, when it is too cold to
comfortably ski or ride.)
*Warmer Average
High Temps
*Warmer Average Low
Temps
*Closer to Beaches
and Golf Courses (in case you want to link your ski trip to a beach
or golf trip)
*More Spectacular
Views (Lake Tahoe views from up above are simply the most spectacular
ski resort views in the country – maybe in the world.)
*More Exciting
Night Life (In addition to nightclubs and gaming, where else can you
take in a big-name act at the casino showrooms after a day on the
slopes?)
*More Exciting
alternative entertainment like a ride to Emerald Bay on the Tahoe
Queen or M.S. Dixie
*Easier to get to
if you fly into Reno
Check out the links in this post, and
surf on over to your favorite travel site to check out travel and
lodgings. You just may have the best winter-play vacation of your
life!
P.S. Our October storm already dropped more than 2 feet of snow at the higher elevations. It looks like it could be a good winter, so come on up the mountain and play on the slopes!
